Showing posts with label Carluke. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Carluke. Show all posts

Monday, 4 January 2016

A life in letters: Carluke



I moved to Carluke a few days before my 10th birthday, in May 1962, and lived there for 16 years, a period which included the happiest, and the most difficult years of my life. My father had taken up a post in the X-ray department at Law Hospital the previous year, and decided to move nearer his work from our previous house at Westerton, a western suburb of Glasgow. I have written elsewhere about my time at Carluke Primary School, and my time working at Carluke Library. Here, I’m recording some general impressions.

Our new house

Our first house in Carluke was 36, Douglas Street, newly-built on a piece of land which also included another new house set further back occupied by the Whiteside family. Beside our house ran a broad lane which Jennifer Muncie (who lived in the older house at the top) called ‘the wee road.’ I remember the newness of the house; the wall-paper in my bed-room with green ducks on it; the new washing machine, to my eyes sophisticated: a Hoover Keymatic – programmed according to which edge of a square bevelled key you presented to a slot at the top of the device. The purchase of a roll of paper kitchen towels on an upright wooden dispenser seemed a new extravagance.

The land around the house was uncultivated. In time my father added a wall round the front and side of the property, a garage at the top end; and a porch filling the narrow space between the house and the ‘wee road’. It’s construction was masterminded by local joiner Frank Forsyth, who once the lower brickwork was in place drove round from this yard in Kirkton Avenue with the whole infrastructure of the porch on a trailer behind his van, and then fitted it in place. He promised me that the brown lead sheets on the roof, just beneath my bedroom window, would in time change a pleasing green: when this never happened I felt a slight sense of betrayal. 

In time the garden was cultivated too, after I had staked a claim to a corner by creating a cave of rubbish and lumps of earth into which I  crawled through a rubber tyre. Inside I felt secure.  The gardener brought with him what was to me an impressive new gadget - a rotivator. He laid lawns and concrete slabs, and marked out flower beds, one of which was assigned to me. I sowed an excess of flower seeds, but was never too enthusiastic about weeding, though in time I learned to mow the lawns with the small Atco petrol mower which dad purchased.

Down the High Street

At Westerton there were just a couple of shops within easy walking distance of the house – a butchers and a Co-op.  Carluke instantly impressed me by the variety of retails outlets in the High Street. There was a Templeton’s supermarket towards the top, where the post office had been before it moved to a new building in Stewart Street, but otherwise shops remained, as no doubt they had been for many years, in private ownership. The day we moved, we went for tea at Eason’s the bakers who had a restaurant above the shop – a rather bleak room, I recall, though sun-lit that afternoon -  but I was excited by the adventure of being in a new town.  In time, I grew to prefer Wallace’s bakers, at the foot of the High Street close to the old Town Hall on account of a confection they produced called  ‘chocolate dice cake.’ 

Another early visit was to McCubbins, a traditional ironmongers, where I bought a blue thermometer which I hung up beside my bed. In time, I got to know  Mrs Barber’s newsagents; Hincksman and Forrest, the pharmacy; and the butchers at the corner of Union Street, where you could see huge carcasses suspended from metal rails – I’d be dispatched there regularly when we had a dog to purchase ‘plate mince.’ Each of these shops had its own distinctive smell – Mrs Barber’s for instance, was redolent with the mingled aromas of books, newsprint, glue, rubber bands, old wooden shelving. 

In 1962, I think there were three private grocers in Carluke (one owned by the family of Alastair Gardner who was in my class at school), who did home deliveries - by bicycle in at least one case.  There was a music shop which displayed classical record jackets in the window – there I first heard of Verdi’s opera Aida (which at first I mistakenly pronounced with two syllables instead of three.)  And there was a shop which impressed my parents with its range of stock (I can’t recall the owner’s surname, but her first name was Mary.) There, I was introduced to the joys of Lego – my first box came from there – simple white and red bricks, which for me opened a new door to creative play. I saved up to buy additional packs of bricks – blues, and yellows; curved bricks to build a tower with; and best of all, a brick with a small electric bulb in. A less useful purchase was a big board with roadways on it, and vacant lots on which you could erect buildings – my architectural visions were too grandiose to fit in the small space available. I built a swimming pool and church, and created an ‘extension fund’ to save up for the bricks to expand it, modelling the similar fund at the local Baptist Church. And I built a ‘President Kennedy Memorial Building’ at the end of 1963. Sometimes I took my bricks round the Paul Birrell’s house, and we’d erect structures and then subject them to an aerial bombardment before they were stormed by ground forces. ‘Why must you always be destroying things boys’, said Paul’s mother Mildred. It was still less than 20 years after the 2nd World War, and our kids comics were still full of daring commandos and German treachery.

Another High Street premises I was very familiar with was the barbers, down at the bottom close to the Evangelical Union Church. I’d be sent there on Saturday mornings, clutching the appropriate fee, and sit waiting on the bench, watching trimmed hair falling to the floor, looking out of the window, and listening as the radio played Puff the magic dragon, and similar songs.

In time I became familiar with the town furnishing firms – Graham’s who had premises beside the old graveyard and also ran an undertaking business, and Brooks in Hamilton Street. My parents were towards the end of our time in the town, devoted to the services of Alec Brooks who provided us with carpets, furnishings and curtains. 

At the top of the High Street, close to the Wee Thackit pub (which I learned to view with the disapproval with which I’d gathered such establishments should be regarded) was the building housing above a licensed grocer’s business the dentist under whose drill I suffered, and the Carluke office of the Carluke and Lanark Gazette which in the mid-70s I visited occasionally trying to publicise the library service.  In the same period, they occasionally published Christian reflections I’d written at Christmas and Easter, and carried a series I wrote about Carluke’s Boy Poet William Rankin Lightbody, whose grave is marked in the old St Luke’s Church graveyard by a truncated pillar, and whose literary remains were published subsequently. They were not in fact of any great literary merit, but I discussed them at considerable length. I later tried to sell the same articles to the Scots Magazine, without success. The sight of my name appearing in print appealed to me in those days of my hunger for significance. 

Not far along Stewart Street heading north was the local garage, close to the Windsor Bingo Hall, where my mother bought me my first car when she received a legacy following the death of her father – a blue  Mini, which cost,  I recall £750. 

Carluke was therefore a self-sufficient place. The Crawforddyke Estate had expanded the town southwards from the town centre, and there was new building in the Wilton Road area during the years I was in Carluke. I think the population in those days was about 5000, but it was still a sense of community, and  you recognized many of the local people. 

Douglas Street

There was a sense of neighbourliness in Douglas Street – I became friends with Jennifer Muncie (who told me that her mother insisted she be called ‘Jennifer’, never ‘Jenny’) , and the Steele cousins, Norman and Leslie who lived close to us, and to a lesser extent with the Whiteside children – we were all roughly the same age, and we mucked around as kids do playing in our back yards, or venturing down the line of the old Roman Road which continued north from Holm Street to the Luggie Road through fields as yet not built up. 

We stood waiting outside Mrs Adamson’s house (she being a matriarch of the local Adamson transport empire) for the Capocci man to come in his van playing The Happy Wanderer.  I was largely happy those days. I remember being annoyed at myself for allowing my parents to buy me, from the sports shop next to the garage at the foot of Wishaw Main Street a pair of roller-skates – they’d seen some of my friends with these. I went back and forward along Douglas Street clunking on eight small wheels, but I could never pluck up courage to entrust myself to the skates, just as I would  run towards a ‘slide’ in the school playground in wintry days, and then freeze, unable to release myself into to the freedom of exhiliarating motion. And so the skates remained little used, and my happiness was dented.

Also in the neighbourhood, in the Council flats across the road lived the Misses Clark – at one point they were selling a Ford Anglia, which my father bought for my mother, and I was allowed to use in the days before I had the mini. I remember driving faster than was safe along the deserted back road from lower Braidwood home, having spent the evening with some family friends, Andrew and Jeanette Weir playing Elgar’s Cockaigne overture very loudly on a cassette player. Near the Misses Clark lived a lady whose name I can’t recall who was entering a convent, and while clearing out gave me a pile of children’s novels which opened my eyes to a deeper, more thoughtful kind of writing that the Enid Blyton texts I had hitherto majored on. 

On the other side of the ‘wee road’ from us lived Mr and Mrs Frame, who were friendly. Mrs Frame invited me in to select, one volume at a time, the novels of Arthur Ransome  - richly imaginative landscapes which I loved. These books had belonged to their son, who was a cinema manager. (Cinemas were another venue of which as a child, I felt I was supposed to disapprove.) The same Mrs Frame, however ticked us off for going in to her garden once too often to retrieve a lost ball without asking, and after that I viewed her with some suspicion!

Walking to school

Over the years I got to know most parts of Carluke. My most frequent walk was to primary school – I could take different routes. My normal route was via Milton Street, Kirk Road, and Kirk Street, past the Jam Factory, which smelled of hot steam. Scott’s ‘jelly works’ was the town’s main industry. They also made Scotchoc  cooking chocolate, and according to their annual adverts in the school magazine, ‘Jumpers’, which always puzzled me as I didn’t ever see any signs of knitwear production.  Off Milton Street, a piece of land was home to large greenhouses – fruit production was another of the town’s staple industries and many of the fields now built over had been home to greenhouse, although by the 1960s many of these were derelict and out of production. Annually, the soil in the greenhouses would be steamed to sterilize it, and I particularly remember the giant steamer and a huge pile of coal or coke arriving in Milton Street to allow this common process to be undertaken. 

At the corner of Milton Street and Douglas Street, lived Mr Marshall, who to me seemed impossibly old, and  like us attended the Baptist Church. While my father was the church treasurer, Mr Marshall came along annually with a lady called Mary Allan (I remember her aged father, housebound, his head bowed over his Bible, praying, a godly man of the old school) to audit the books. One day, passing Mr Marshall’s house, I thought I heard a gasp for help. Knowing he lived on his own, I went to tell my parents what I’d heard. They sent me back to knock on his door to ensure he was all right – fortunately, he was. 

A lad in Milton Street, older than me, set up a band with some of his mates, (was it called ‘The Miltones’?) and practiced so loudly that the sound could be heard back at our house. My parents shook their heads!

The alternative route to and from school involved walking the length of Douglas Street, and then heading east along Clyde Street, where I’d hesitantly scuttle past the house where it was said that ‘Something bad had happened,’ and then meet my classmate Paul Birrell in his family’s upper flat across from the end of Kirk Road, which he shared with his family: I remember his mum, and sisters Susan and Jane. Paul and I would walk to school, yattering away. I remember a conversation in which we concluded that if there was a war we would join the Royal Engineers as that seemed more constructive than killing people – we obviously had a gentler side than we showed when crawling around in his front room, bombing Lego villages..  I remember Paul telling me a rhyme: ‘Tarzan in the jungle, sitting on the gate, waiting for the toilet, [rude noise, dramatically generated with a glint in the eye] Too late!.’  And I remember asking Paul what the word ‘Sluvsya’ meant, as in the ‘Sluvsya, yeah yeah yeah’ which he was bellowing out.  

On the way to school we’d pass the house of Sheena Watson, who went to the Baptist Church and once gave me an EP of Salvation Army Band music for Christmas.  We’d turn into Kirkton Avenue, past Frank Forsyth’s joiners yard and Bryce the builders yard before entering the playground.
Kirkton Avenue was home to Linda Bryce, the builder’s daughter. I remember once, in my 20s when we were both at University visiting her and ineptly playing her the last few minutes of Wilton Walton’s Belshazzar’s Feast very loudly, much to her amusement.  Lower down Kirkton Avenue lived the Fleming family, who were stalwarts of the Baptist Church. Annette was in the year below me at school.

I remember one December twilight, after our primary school Christmas party, walking home as snow fell, looking up at the lamplight as the flakes tumbled through the brighness. I was looking forward to Christmas. It must have been 1962 or 1963 – the magic had not yet departed, and in fact it would be perhaps my best Christmas ever, with three ‘big’ presents – a huge wooden box with a sliding lid of Lego bricks, a set of plastic aircraft with interchangeable parts, so that you could design your own, and (joy above all, a Petite typewriter with plastic keys which actually worked.) But this was before Christmas. I was walking up the little rise as Douglas Street takes leave of Clyde Street, and walking slowly beside the sloping bank of snow-covered grass I had a cleansing sense of wonder, of joy, of wholeness the memory of which has always remained with me. I have only one similar, and lesser memory in Carluke – walking down the path from Clyde Street to West Avenue where South Avenue now stands, a decade or so later. A cloud in the otherwise blue sky caught my eye, and again there was a transcendent sense of wholeness, and peace and perhaps the sense of being at one with all things.

Getting to know the town

Quite often when we had the dog in the  mid-1960s, I’d take it for walks: I had this rather crazy concept of ‘aleatoric walking’, coming from the Latin word (Alea) for dice. ‘Aleatoric music’ was a phrase used by avant garde composers of the period – they composed different musical sequences, but the order in which these were played was determined by the toss of a coin. An ‘aleatoric walk’ was one in which the route I took was, at each junction, determined by a similar chance process.

My walk might lead  me up Holm Street (past the Kerrs’ house, just next to the post-box attached to a lamp-post – they went to the Baptist Church) past my mother’s friend Margaret Stewart’s house, where she lived with son John and daughter Elizabeth, and then down Mount Stewart Street to ‘the cross’. Past the house and yard of Gilchrist and Schaeffer, Bryce’s competitors, and the building where David and Maggie Simpson lived with their kids Jim and Heather – David and Maggie were heavily involved in the Baptist Church, and led the children’s activities with love and enthusiasm. 

Downhill, past the entrance to St Andrews Church of Scotland where I used to sit listening to my friend George Cringles practising the organ. He played for services at the church occasionally, and on one occasion asked me if I’d like to play for a wedding at which he was unable to be present. Fortunately, tempting as the fee would have been, my better judgement prevailed – I could just about master the keyboards, but not the footwork! St Andrews was also the venue on at least one occasion for an inter-church Sunday School choir competition. Our church had put on a creditable performance, but that year the competition was won by an energetic, rousing and contemporary rendition of a song called I cannot come based on Jesus’ parable about the guests invited to a wedding, who decline to attend, and a series of excuses. 

There was some co-operating between churches in the town, but in the circles I moved in as a child and teenager there was a deep suspicion of the ‘ecumenical movement’ especially insofar as it included theological liberals and Roman Catholics. There was also suspicion of the ‘charismatic movement’ and questions about how ‘biblical’ were practices such as divine healing and worshipping in a God-given language. Some churches, such as the Gospel Hall had minimal engagement with the wider church community in the town.

Mount Stewart Street led me past the Roman Catholic Church; the Wee Moss, a play area in front of a line of police houses; the rear of the Crown Hotel’s function suite; the smelly gents toilet set into the grounds of the Royal Bank of Scotland; and the ‘bus stance where I’d catch the ‘bus each morning to Wishaw High School.

I remember walking uphill past the Wee Moss one day driven by the exhiliaration of having finished a piece of writing I was pleased with, clutching it under my arm in a folder. I also remember walking towards the Wee Moss, just turning the corner outside the old sweetie shop opposite the top of School Lane. It’s late in the evening; it’s summer and there’s pale sunlight and an evening stillness; I’m walking beside my father.  I was having difficulty sleeping, afraid of entrusting myself to sleep, and my father sweetly went out walking with me a few evenings, talking softly to me, seeking to still my spirit.

The Market Square

My aleatoric walk might lead me across Stewart Street and up through the Market, a triangular piece of land at the heart of the town furnished with flower beds and seats, a shelter, and the town’s War Memorial. I remember two things connected with the Market. Firstly, it was the venue for the weekly open-air meeting held on Sunday afternoons during the summer months by the local Gospel Hall which my parents and I attended from 1970 onwards.

A small group of us would roll up in cars just before three, and unload a portable harmonium with folding legs,  and a battery-powered microphone and speaker. Even then, the meeting was old fashioned. There would be traditional gospel hymns; someone would sing a solo or two (I regret that it was on occasion me, defiantly conspicuous in my Hunting Macrae tartan kilt, bellowing out How great Thou Art.); there might be a ‘ testimony’ as someone shared their faith story, and there would certainly be a short (or not so short) sermon. The words and music echoed off the walls of the surrounding houses. While it was taking place, Gospel Hall folk would be walking round the park, and along the queue of cards waiting at the traffic lights, handing out gospel tracts to anyone who would accept them. They loved God, and they meant well.

The Market was also the venue for the annual visit of Santa Claus shortly before Christmas. I remember being present in the crowd one year, watching as Santa drove in on a horse-drawn cart from the entrance opposite Rankin Street, and handed out gifts to the children. Santa was in fact a local personality, Roy Russell, who ran the Tao Ha riding school outwith town, and also had a mobile greengrocer business. I remember he’d reverse up the ‘wee road’ and stop and blow his horn outside Frank Forsyth’s structure until my mother went to the door and gave him her custom. He was a loud, but tender-hearted man who had been a Japanese Prisoner of War during WWII, and still bore the marks of this. 

I was also, briefly, a student at his riding school. I was given a hard hat, and went to the Tao Ha for a few lessons. We learned indoors, in a straw-strewn building with a corrugated iron ceiling. I could mount the horse, and let it carry me round the track slowly. But then very low jumps were put in place (about 6” high) and we were supposed to encourage the horse to leap over these. It was, however, another instance where I was not relaxed enough to yield myself to the horse’s motion, on entrust myself to it. In turn, the horse sensed my fear, and so my days as an equestrian finished before they had properly began. For some reason, I agreed to go on a pony trek one day, and found myself following Roy with other kids across fields and along lanes and roads, hating every moment.  My one memory is of the girl in front saying, when her mount peed generously in the mud ‘I wish I could do that.’

More of the town

At the top of the Market, I might head further up Market Road past the then High School building, which at that point was a ’Junior Secondary’ which did not provide education above secondary four. My chief memory of the building was of the day I spent there in March 1974 supervising the Polling Station for the first of the two General Elections that year. Each room in use had its own ‘Presiding Officer’ and ‘Polling Clerk’ – I was appointed Presiding Officer in Room 1, supported by an old school friend, James Wade as polling clerk. But the officer in charge of Room 1 was also notionally responsible for the polling station as a whole, which I found rather challenging, especially when I was finding it difficult to follow the instructions for sealing the metal ballot boxes with wax before the station opened. I was there from 6 in the morning until after 10 at night, and in the process met the local police chief and the Labour Party candidate, Judith Hart who was the successful candidate. In those days, as a local government employee (I was with the library service by that point) you could both keep your day job pay for the day in question, and claim remuneration for your work at the polling station. And in addition, I sold an article about my experiences to the Glasgow Herald.

Further up from the school on Belstane Road was the Moor Park playing field. I do remember visiting this with my father, a vaguely-desgnated uncle Stewart and his two adopted daughters Alma and Ruth who were visiting us from their home in Mossend. Stewart was a model aircraft enthusiast, and we flew a couple of his broad-winged creations with their little petrol motors. I loved the sense of being in charge as they swooped above – but I was only entrusted with the controller very briefly.

I might go down the road on the other side of the school, Chapel Street which took you past the church to which the Baptist Church moved in the early 1970s before delivering you at the bottom of the High Street. Turn left, and on the corner of John Street a short distance away stood the Rankin Memorial Town Hall, which had been built in memory of the local 19th century polymath Daniel Reid Rankin, famed for his fossil collection and his published history of the community. Carluke Library used to occupy part of the ground floor on the right hand side of the building, and I visited this regularly as a child. But I was rarely in the Town Hall itself, an exception being my visits with my parents to listen to the preaching of an Irish Evangelist who was visiting the town. Eddie MacMaster. I remember going back one night to buy a copy of the EP disc of Eddie singing Christian songs. I knew my parents were looking for some kind of response to the preaching from me, and thought that buying the record might be a positive sign. ‘It’s going to be a pack-out’ I remember saying on the last night of the preaching, but this was over-optimistic and there were lots of spare seats.  A sudden, morbid thought that night: the polished wood of the Town Hall ceiling spoke to me of coffins.

But I remember a magic moment in the early 60s. The kids from the Baptist Church were going our carol-singing one evening, led by Maggie Simpson and Ethel Cargill. I presume our starting-point was at the church, but I completely lost track of where we were in the darkness as we went from house to house. And then I looked up and saw, further up John Street,just ahead of us, the Town Hall Steeple with its illuminated clock, and I remember the sheer joy of knowing where I was, and being where I was, and being somewhere completely different to what I’d expected.

That night, coming up John Street towards the Town Hall, we would have passed in the darkness the old cottage in its own grounds where our family friends Margaret and Norman McGrail lived. Norman worked in personnel at Cummins Diesel Engine factory in Shotts, though in the later 1960s he got a job with the Highlands and Islands Development Board in Inverness and the couple moved north. As a child, and later, I deeply appreciated their friendship. I enjoyed visiting their house to see them; their goat which they kept for goat-milk; and their Cavalier King Charles Spaniels and Staffordshire Bull Terriers. I watched a bitch giving birth, and our dog Prince (Kennel Club name Calderbrig Behram) was one of their pups. They asked Indian medical friends from Law Hospital to help them choose names for their litters: the names for the pups in each successive litter began with different letters of the alphabet.  I remember one day meeting them when I was out on a walk, and being invited to their house. I went with them, and sat watching an episode of Dr Findlay’s Casebook (which I’d never seen before) until the phone rang – it was my parents wondering if by any chance I was there. Neither the McGrails or I had thought to notify them of my presence.

Margaret offered to give me piano lessons, with no expectation that I would sit any exams. And so I went to her week by week after. I didn’t practise thoroughly was not in case very gifted, but I loved sitting down drinking soft drink, eating Wallace’s chocolate dice cake, and taking her copies to read of the stories I had scrawled in ink in cheap notebooks.  (Speaking to Margaret after she reached old age, I told her that my daughter Bethany has an A in Higher Music and enjoys playing the piano, and Margaret replied with blunt honesty ‘She must have interited it from your mother.’) After Margaret moved north, my parents arranged for me to go to Mrs Ellis in Strathlachlan Avemue for piano lessons (her husband worked at the hospital, and her daughter Helen was my contemporary. However, my motivation was poor, and I soon abandoned these lessons.

Visiting the doctor

During the early 1970s, I had several courses of medication to treat anxiety and depression. Our GP was Eric Paterson, who lived with his family in Station Road, and whose surgery was in an old building close to the garage in Stewart Street. This was the time before the various medical practices in the town moved into the new health centre, and before booking surgery appointments became the norm. If you needed to see the doctor you simply turned up at the surgery at consultation time, and awaited your turn. After you’d been seen, you left the consulting room by a different door which took you into a hall-way from which you returned to the pavement.  Except that if you happened to be the son of another doctor, your dad arranged with Eric Paterson that you would present yourself at the surgery at an appointed time, and knock on the outside door. The doctor would let you in to the hallway, where you would sit waiting until he’d finished with his current patient, upon which you’d be summoned in. I think the medication I had helped to some degree, but did not fundamentally address the issues I had. 

And so, my remaining years at Carluke, while not unremittingly gloomy, were often difficult and testing. The bedroom at 36 Douglas Street overlooking the ‘wee road’ which had once been a haven of Lego bricks and creativity had become a place of fear, and tears, and strange, torturing small-hours anxieties.

The majority of the social interactions of my parents and I revolved round church – this was both because church events were time-consuming, and also because of the understanding which was certainly expressed, but which I perhaps interpreted more rigorously than my parents and the other church folk intended, that people who were not Christians, or even ‘not our kind of Christian,’ were somehow ‘on the outside,’ or, as the theological term had it ‘in the world.’ Relationships with ‘the world’ were not, I believed, encouraged. As I entered my mid-teens, I was also troubled with church because I did not, in truth, fell that I belonged. I had tried to ‘pray the prayer’, and read many books about God. There were moments of certainty, but I had no sense of the joy or the sense of belonging which, if you were to believe the ‘testimonies’ you heard from other Christians was the normal experience of those who said ‘yes!’ to God, and so, tragically I saw myself as a failure.

I don’t think that the kind of religious environment which was mine as I grew up led to the neurotic pain which I experienced, for I know now that I was born with a tendency to anxiety/depression. But certainly the sense of neither belonging ‘in the world’ or ‘in the church’ tore me apart – particularly in the light of the constant emphasis among many evangelical Christians in the early 1970s that Christ must surely return soon, and that those who were not his would be ‘left behind’ to face the consequences of their unbelief.

I have written separately about my experiences of the Martin Memorial Baptist Church, and Carluke Gospel Hall. When my family attended the Baptist Church in Stewart Street, we round from the house – up Holm Street, and along Kirk Road, past Mrs Graham’s shop stood – it looked as if it had been built in the back garden of her house, and the times I was in it seemed to be chronically under-stocked, but Mrs Graham did sell serviceable home-made ice-lollies.  We’d pass the red-brick building where Mrs Turnbull from the church lived – I saw the slogan IRA spray-painted on the garden wall, and I thought it odd because the only IRA I knew of was Ira D. Sankey, musical companion of the 19th century American evangelist D. L. Moody, and compiler of the voluminous Sacred Songs and Solos with which I was very familiar. Round the corner, past Stevenson’s green-tiled newsagents (the shop-owner’s son Colin was in my class at school) we arrived at the church. Set a little back from the road, the Martin Memorial Baptist Church had a traditional frontage, behind which lay the sanctuary, and behind that a small hall, kitchen, toilet and minister’s vestry. It was to extend this accommodation that the church ‘extension fund’ which I mimicked in my Lego play was set up.  

Leaving Carluke

In 1975 my father decided to move from 36 Douglas Street to 22, West Avenue, which he named ‘Arderyth’, and old name for Airdrie.  It was a lovely house, all on one level, in a lovely location. But astonishingly, we only stayed there for three years. During that time, I worked as librarian at Carluke Library, before taking up a post with the Christian Youth organization Scripture Union, first of all in Falkirk, and then in Glasgow. But in 1978 my father decided to move to Airdrie.  Some time previously, we had begun travelling to an Airdrie Church, it must have made sense to my father to relocate to North Lanarkshire.

But I do know that what I needed was not different people, a different church, or a different place to stay, but an inner growth towards self-knowing and self-confidence, and a personal sense of faith. This would come, and it would come in Airdrie, but I think I could have grown anywhere given the right circumstances. I could have grown, and grown independent as I belatedly did, in Carluke, and I wish my parents hadn’t felt the need to relocate themselves – they moved back to the Clyde Valley a few years later, by which time I was living on my own.

I wish that I’d been at a more positive point in my life when the time came to leave Carluke, but I have many positive memories of my time there, looking at life from the window above the ‘wee road.’

A life in letters: Martin Memorial Baptist Church, Carluke



(Best read in conjunction with the artcles on Carluke and on Carluke Gospel Hall.) 

Before moving to Carluke in 1962, our family had attended a Brethren Church in Milngavie, but my parents, I think after some research, decided to join the Martin Memorial Baptist Church in Stewart Street not far from our home. I dubbed this place of worship ‘The church with the smiley minister,’ for so indeed did the Reverend George A. J. Balmer seem to me.  Mum and dad appreciated his character, his faith and his preaching, and my mother enjoyed being able to sharpen up her German by talking to Mrs Balmer, who was Swiss by birth.
As far as I remember I attended both morning and evening services, finding them not exactly riveting, but simply accepting church attendance as ‘what you did’. At some stage however, I began to be disturbed by mentions of the return of Christ, the taking of his followers to be with him in heaven, and the consequences of being ‘left behind’. I tried to block out these sermons by filling my mind with other thoughts, and by building imaginary Lego structures in my head, but still the finger of fear reached  me.
When first we moved to Carluke, I was reluctant to become involved in the church’s children’s ministry, simply through shyness. I remember my parents taking me round to the outside door of the small hall where the Junior Christian Endeavour (CE) was meeting, and all but pushing me into the room.  There I was welcomed by Maggie Simpson and Ethel Cargill, and felt at home. 

I think I enjoyed the CE – all I can remember of the weekly meetings is the singing of Choruses, short songs on a spiritual them, mostly vigorous, although some, such as Climb, climb up sunshine mountain, and He owns the cattle on a thousand hills were gentler and more reflective. I particularly recall one a chorus Sailing home (a heavenly harbour was in prospect) which involved crossing your arms and linking hands with the people sitting on either side of you on the bench, and rocking back and forward simulating a sailing motion while you sang. But small boys particularly enjoyed throwing themselves vigorously into the rocking process with the malign intent of making the person at the end of the seat fall off.  I remember the sense of superiority I felt when we were reading one of the Psalms, each taking one verse, and others in the group read out the word ‘Selah’ when it appeared, which I knew meant simply ‘Pause’ and should be left unspoken. I also remember ‘dooking for apples’ at the Halloween party – at this point, in this church at least, they were no evangelical concerns about celebrating the traditional joys of Halloween.
With regard to parties, I remember debates as to whether ‘kissing games’ should be permitted those for teenager. I think I recall these were in the end forbidden. But I remember that the women’s group, the Woman’s Auxiliary had a particularly cringe-making game at their parties called Poor Pussy, where one of those attending would go down on all fours, put their head on the lap of the others attending one by one, and make cute noises while the person on whose lap the cats head was resting had to say ‘Poor pussy!’ without laughing. If you laughed, you were ‘it’.
I also attended Sunday School, which was held in the sanctuary. After a general time of singing, each class met in its designated area of the pews, marked out with green curtains suspended from removable metal poles which slotted into the pew-tops. The idea was to ensure privacy. My first Sunday School teacher there was Douglas Inglis. I particularly enjoyed his invitation to write up stories of Jesus’ encounters with people as recorded in the gospels as taking place in the town of Capernaum as though for a local newspaper, The Capernaum Chronicle.  Douglas promised to produce an actual edition of this, and I wrote a number of colourful pieces for him, and I was rather disappointed when, perhaps due to lack of participation from others on the class, my pieces were never seen again. I remember the Church organized a ‘Bible examination’ in which we children took part. I think I did quite well, but those of us who were more academic were unfairly disadvantaged.
I moved on to a more senior class, and I found myself with a problem. The Sunday teacher, no doubt following the instructions in his American Sunday School lesson plan, gave us a piece of paper and asked us each to write down when we were ‘converted’, when we ‘became Christians’. The other boys seemed to write freely enough, but I, with no sense that God had ever heard my frequent heavenward cries, wrote simply ‘I am not yet a Christian although I would like me be one.’ I was so upset by this that I refused to see the teacher when he came to the house to visit me, and refused to go back to Sunday School. Although done with the best of intentions, this incident was, for me, a kind of spiritual abuse
For a while I attended another Sunday School run by the church, the ‘Mission Sunday School’ which Douglas’s father John Inglis ran in the wooden pavilion at the Crawforddyke playing fields, but I think I must have returned to the school in the main church, because I have a recollection of a Sunday School Soiree where I worked with a group of other boys to record on a big reel-to-reel tape recorder a commentary for a back-projected filmstrip. I relished the creative and technical challenges this brought, and the engagement of the teacher who was involved: his name, I think was Tom Findlay.
In time ‘the smiley minister’ and his wife left to go to Aberdeen where George was to pastor the Gilcomston Park Baptist Church, and his place was taken by the Rev Charles P. Simpson.  I was baptized and became a member of the church in 1967 – I have written elsewhere about my belief at the time that I was living a lie, and the guilt which that brought me.
When I was too old for the Junior Christian Endeavour, I joined the Senior section. Again I can’t remember much about the weekly meetings or their content, except for ‘Chain prayer’ – which encouraged us to pray briefly, one after the other, and what was called ‘Consecration’ – this took place during the regular meetings about once a month, and gave an opportunity for those present to re-dedicate themselves to God. Often this would be done by finding a verse from the Bible which expressed your commitment, (such as Psalm 31:1 ‘In thee, O Lord, do I put my trust; let me never be ashamed: deliver me in thy righteousness.’) and repeating it out loud during the time set aside for this.  This would have been useful if you were truly seeking God, but I suspect for most of us it was simply an awkward routine, a hoop to jump through. At the very end of each meeting, we'd repeat the 'Miszpah Benediction' from the Bible - I found these two words in themselves had an inherent, healing tranquillity. 'The Lord watch between thee and me, while we are absent the one from the other. (Genesis 31:49)
Regularly over the autumn and winter months, the Senior CE would go ‘on deputation’ to another church somewhere in Lanarkshire. Usually, this involved leading Saturday night tea meetings attended by largely elderly people. Charles Simpson normally went along with us and preached. But we led the part of the event which did not involve tea and buns. We prayed, we sang, we might give a book review, or a testimony when we shared our own conversion story. I was always prepared, with my (as I thought) hypocritical testimony typed up and folded inside the cover of my Authorised Version Bible. (This translation remained standard at that time – there were some evangelical theological concerns about the accuracy of the New English Bible, and though the Good News Bible in its revolutionary down-to-earth style was increasingly being used in evangelical circles (though some people felt that the language wasn’t sufficiently austere for such subject matter) the revolutionary Living Bible and New International Version were still some years ahead.)
And on Sunday evenings after church, during the ministry of Charles Simpson, the young people would meet in the Baptist Manse in Kirkstyle Avenue. These were, as I recall, lighthearted gatherings. I particularly recall Billy McCulloch singing very loudly one evening the 1968 Scaffold hit

We'll drink, drink drink
To Lily the pink, the pink, the pink
The saviour of the human race.
She invented medicinal compound
Most efficacious in every case.

The minister smiled, but my parents, when I told them later, were somewhat disapproving.
Otherwise, my late-1960s memories of the Martin Memorial Baptist Church included the routine of regular services and the occasional very scary sermon; my regular afternoon spent scraping the old Bible-verse posters off the notice board in the church grounds just above the pavement and replacing them with new ones; standing at the desk in the church hall just before the Sunday morning service stamping the ‘Young Worshippers League’ cards which children brought to me to indicate that they had attended church that Sunday; Missionary Meetings, when we’d listen to a speaker from the Baptist Missionary Society or another agency such as the Unevangelised Fields Mission or Worldwide Evangelisation Crusade or watch a film – usually in black and white. These other lands seemed so very different, and so very far away. I held in deep respect the missionaries who ventured to so far for God, and wondered what it would be like to receive ‘the call’ (God-given) to join them. We had a wooden BMS Missionary Box on a table in the living room; Sunday School Soirees when the children took part, and for which I wrote some short Bible plays; film nights when, after a publicity campaign when we’d pushed fliers about the event through letter-boxes in the town, we’d sit in the darkness on a Saturday night listening to the whirr of the projector, and watching a Christian film projected on the screen, usually one produced by the Billy Graham Evangelistic Association, which you knew would conclude with a character attending a ‘Crusade’ meeting addressed by Graham, coming to the front when the invitation was given, and having their lives transformed. I recall one film which was not produced by the BGEA, and was more thought-proving – a film called Question 7.
This concerned a young Christian in the Soviet Union seeking to live with integrity as a believer while at the same time attempting to blend inconspicuously into the humanistic background. If he wished to progress in the organisation he was a member of, he had to respond in a politically acceptable way to a series of questions about himself. Question 7 was the tough one. If he answered it honestly, he knew he would be ostracised and denied advancement. And yet, if he did not acknowledge his faith, rationalising that he could still practise it in private, could he handle the sense of hypocrisy and of failing God which he would feel? In the end, after much wavering, he chose God rather than personal advancement.
Another film which, despite its being shot in black and white I found more stimulating and genuinely moving than the Billy Graham films probably because it was made with greater artistic and intellectual integrity was a biographical study of the life of Martin Luther. We watched this over two nights in Shotts Baptist Church in the mid-1960s, and this location added an additional frisson to the experience, as it had formerly been a cinema, and the seats tiered down to the choir area where the screen was set up.
In 1970, when I was 18, we left the  Martin Memorial Baptist Church in  and began attending the local Gospel Hall, which stood in a corrugated iron building in the lane between Hamilton Street and Union Street. The move was my parents’ decision, though with my usual lack of personal conviction at that time, I simply agreed with them. The reasons for the move were partly theological, and partly through other issues. I must say that I took a certain delight in phoning my grandfather and telling him that we were ‘coming home’ to the Brethren. Sadly, I had no-one in the Baptist Church whom I would call a friend – due largely to my social ineptness, and my lack of a sense of self-worth.
Shortly after we left, the Extension Fund was used, not as planned to expand the Martin Memorial building, but to move to an otherwise redundant church building in Chapel Street, which became known as Kirkstyle Baptist Church. The Martyn Memorial building was sold for community use. I attended Kirkstyle Baptist Church occasionally – I went out for some months with a young woman from the church – and later, when my parents were living in Crossford and worshipping at Kirkstyle, took several Sunday services there.

.